well inspection -- Green Door Home Inspections

Do I Need a Well Inspection When Buying a Home in Colorado?

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If the home you are buying has a private well, yes. You need a well inspection, and it should include two things: a flow and yield test of the well system, and lab testing of the water itself. Nobody regulates a private well except the person who owns it. The EPA rules that protect city tap water do not apply to private wells. The only way to know what is coming out of that tap is to test it before you close.

Many buyers around Castle Rock, Elizabeth, Larkspur, Sedalia, and the Park County foothills are surprised to learn this. If you have only ever lived on city water, a well is a system you have never had to think about. Here is what a proper well inspection covers and why the water test is not optional.

What does a well inspection actually include?

A complete well and water inspection has three parts.

A flow and yield test. The well system runs continuously for a full hour while flow readings are taken at set intervals. This shows whether the well, pump, and pressure tank can deliver water at a sustained rate instead of just the first few minutes. A well that produces strong flow for five minutes and then fades is a very different property than one that holds steady for the full hour.

Lab water testing. Water samples are collected before any other water runs in the home and delivered the same day to a state-certified laboratory. Our standard panel covers total coliform bacteria and E. coli, nitrate, nitrite, and a first-draw lead sample. That lines up with what HUD and the EPA use as the baseline for drinking water on a home purchase.

A visual evaluation of the accessible well equipment. The wellhead, pressure tank, and pressure gauge behavior are all evaluated as part of the inspection. We do not open the well or pull the pump. No home inspector should.

Why does the water need lab testing? It looks fine.

The contaminants that matter are the ones you cannot see, smell, or taste. Coliform bacteria and E. coli mean surface water or septic effluent is reaching the well. Nitrate and nitrite often come from fertilizer or septic systems and are a real risk for infants. Lead comes from the home’s own plumbing. That is why the lead sample is taken as a true first draw before a single faucet runs.

None of these announce themselves. Crystal clear water fails bacteria tests all the time. That is why the samples go to a certified lab instead of being read off a test strip in the driveway.

Will my lender require a well water test?

If you are using an FHA, VA, or USDA loan on a home with a private well, plan on it. These programs typically require water testing from a certified lab before closing. The panel above is built to match that baseline. If your lender has specific requirements beyond the standard panel, get them in writing early and send them to us before the inspection date so the right samples are collected in one trip.

One thing worth knowing about how we report. We do not stamp a well pass or fail. We report the measurements. Your lender and loan program decide what meets their requirements, and you get the actual numbers to make your own decision. It is the same philosophy behind the rest of our home inspection reports.

How long does it take, and when do results come back?

The flow test and sampling happen during the inspection visit. The well portion of your report is delivered the same day, like everything else we do. The water samples go to the lab that same day and results typically come back in five to seven business days. On a standard Colorado inspection timeline, that means booking promptly after going under contract so the lab results land inside your objection deadline.

Can this be done with my regular home inspection?

Yes, and that is the best way to do it. We perform the well and water inspection in-house as an add-on to the full home inspection. One appointment, one company, one report to work from. It is also available as a standalone service if you only need the well evaluated. Current pricing for both is on our inspection cost guide.

Frequently asked questions

How should the home be prepared for the water test?

The lab standard for the lead sample is at least six hours of no water use at the collection faucet before samples are taken. We notify the listing agent before the appointment so the occupants know not to run water that morning. If water was used, we document it and the report notes the condition.

Does Colorado require a well inspection when buying a home?

No. Colorado does not require a well inspection or water test as a condition of sale. That responsibility falls entirely on the buyer, which is exactly why it belongs in your inspection period. Your lender may require the water test even though the state does not.

What happens if the lab finds bacteria in the water?

The report gives you the lab’s measurements and you take it from there in your negotiation. Wells with bacteria hits are commonly disinfected by a well contractor and retested. Knowing before closing means it is the seller’s problem to solve, not your surprise after move-in.

Do you test homes on city water too?

Our well and water inspection is built for private wells, where the flow test and the water test belong together. We never test water on its own without the well evaluation. Half the picture is not enough to make a decision on.

Green Door Home Inspections provides residential inspections, radon testing, sewer inspections, mold testing, and well and water inspections to Castle Rock, Aurora, Denver, and the Front Range. Call or text us at 720-598-0111 or use the online scheduler to set up your inspection.

home inspector at work -- Green Door Home Inspections

How Long Does a Home Inspection Take, and When Do I Get the Report?

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Most Green Door home inspections take three to four hours on site, and your report is emailed to you the same day as the inspection, guaranteed. The inspection itself typically runs 2.5 to 3.5 hours for a single-family home, and because most of our clients add a sewer scope or radon test to the same visit, the average appointment lands right around four hours. Here is what moves that number in either direction, and exactly when and how your report shows up.

How long does the inspection itself take?

Size and age drive it more than anything else.

  • Condos and townhomes — usually 1.5 to 2.5 hours. The scope narrows to what the unit owner is responsible for, which shortens the visit.
  • Typical single-family homes — 2.5 to 3.5 hours for the inspection itself.
  • Large, older, or complicated homes — four hours or more. A 4,000 square foot home, a 95-year-old home, or a property with detached structures all add time, and we do not rush them.

Age matters as much as square footage. A newer 4,000 square foot home can inspect faster than a 1,500 square foot home from the 1930s, because older homes simply give an inspector more to look at and document.

What makes an inspection run longer?

A few things predictably stretch the visit: crawlspaces, detached garages and outbuildings, homes with multiple furnaces or electrical panels, and access problems. A blocked attic hatch or a locked utility room costs time, and anything that stays inaccessible gets documented as not inspected rather than skipped. If you want the visit to run on schedule, our short guide on what to do before the inspector arrives covers the handful of things that make the biggest difference.

Do add-on services add time?

Yes, and this is why our average visit runs about four hours even though the inspection alone is shorter. A sewer scope adds roughly 15 to 45 minutes. A radon test only adds a few minutes to set the monitor, but the monitor stays in the home for a minimum of 48 hours, so there is a short second trip to retrieve it. Mold testing can add an hour or more depending on the number of samples. Everything is performed in house by the same team on the same visit, so add-ons extend the appointment rather than requiring you to coordinate separate companies. For what each service covers, see what is included in a home inspection, and for current pricing, see what a home inspection costs in Castle Rock and Douglas County.

When do I get the report?

The same day as your inspection. That is a guarantee, not a goal: if we inspected your home today, your report is in your inbox before the day is over, usually the same evening. The report arrives by email as an interactive HTML report you can open on any device, and it can be converted to a PDF whenever you want one. Every finding includes a photo, a location, and a plain-language description, so you are not waiting two or three days to find out what we saw and then decoding it alone.

Should I be there for the inspection?

You are welcome to be there for all of it, and we would rather you were. Walking the home with your inspector is the fastest way to understand what the report says, ask questions in real time, and see findings in person instead of only in photos. If you cannot attend the whole visit, coming for the last stretch works well: that is when we walk through the general condition of the home and the items worth talking about.

Frequently asked questions

Is the report really delivered the same day?

Yes, every time. Same day means same calendar day as the inspection. Most reports go out the same evening.

Can the inspection be done faster?

Two inspectors on one job shortens the visit, and we run team inspections when scheduling allows. What we will not do is compress the inspection itself. We inspect a representative number of accessible components in every major system, and that takes the time it takes.

Does a radon test delay my report?

No. The inspection report is delivered the same day as always. The radon result follows separately once the monitor completes its minimum 48-hour run and is retrieved.

How much time should I set aside if I attend?

Plan on the full window: three to four hours for most homes. If that is not realistic, the last 30 to 45 minutes is the most valuable stretch to be present for.

Does a condo or townhome take less time?

Usually, yes. The scope narrows to what the unit owner is responsible for, so most condo inspections finish in 1.5 to 2.5 hours.

The bottom line

Block out three to four hours for the visit, and expect the report in your inbox that same day, every time. If you want a time estimate for your specific property before you book, call or text us at 720-598-0111 and we will give you a real answer based on the size, age, and services you need. We answer the phone from 8am to 8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections provides residential inspections, sewer scope inspections, radon testing, mold testing, and wood destroying insect inspections to Castle Rock, Douglas County, the Denver metro, and the Front Range.

home inspection in progress -- Green Door Home Inspections

What Is Included in a Home Inspection, and What Is Not?

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A home inspection is a visual, non-invasive evaluation of the readily accessible systems and components of a house on the day it is inspected. At Green Door we follow the InterNACHI Standards of Practice, which means we look at the roof, exterior, foundation and structure, heating, cooling, plumbing, electrical, fireplace, attic and insulation, and doors, windows and interior. What is not included is anything hidden, buried, shut down, or outside that scope: no opening walls, no code compliance rulings, no pools, wells or septic, and no predictions about how long a system will last.

Below is the full picture, including the parts buyers are usually surprised by.

What does a home inspection include?

We inspect a representative number of accessible components in each of these systems:

  • Roof — covering materials, visible flashing, gutters and downspouts, penetrations, and drainage, inspected from the ground, a ladder, or the roof surface when it is safe to walk.
  • Exterior — siding, trim, eaves, walkways, driveways, grading, retaining walls, decks, porches, and railings.
  • Foundation, basement and structure — visible foundation walls, floor framing, crawlspace conditions, and signs of movement or moisture.
  • Heating — the furnace or boiler operated in normal mode, venting, distribution, and visible components.
  • Cooling — the air conditioning system operated in normal mode when outdoor temperatures allow it to run without damage.
  • Plumbing — visible supply and drain lines, fixtures, functional flow and drainage, the water heater and its venting and discharge piping, and the main water shutoff.
  • Electrical — the service entrance, main and sub panels, visible wiring, and a representative number of accessible receptacles, switches, and GFCI devices.
  • Fireplace — the visible firebox, damper, hearth, and chimney exterior.
  • Attic, insulation and ventilation — accessible attic space, insulation depth and type, and ventilation.
  • Doors, windows and interior — a representative number of accessible doors and windows, floors, walls, ceilings, stairs, and railings.
  • Built-in appliances — dishwasher, disposal, range or oven, cooktop, range hood, microwave, bathroom exhaust fans, and garage door operator.

Every finding comes with a photo, a location, and a plain-language description. Your report is emailed the same day as the inspection, not two or three days later.

What is not included in a home inspection?

A home inspection is visual and non-invasive by design. We do not:

  • Open walls, ceilings or floors. Anything concealed behind finished surfaces is outside the scope. We report what is visible and accessible.
  • Rule on building code compliance. A home inspection is not a code inspection. That is a different job performed by a different authority.
  • Inspect swimming pools or spas.
  • Inspect wells or septic systems. These are underground and require specialty contractors.
  • Inspect low-voltage or smart-home systems. Security systems, alarms, fire suppression, irrigation controllers, landscape lighting, intercoms, and smart-home hubs are excluded.
  • Evaluate cosmetics. Paint quality, carpet wear, scuffs, and finish preferences are not defects.
  • Predict life expectancy. We can tell you the age and observed condition of a furnace. We cannot tell you it has four years left, and neither can anyone else honestly.
  • Operate systems that are shut off. If the gas is off, the water is off, or the power is off, that system cannot be evaluated and the report will say so.
  • Move furniture, stored items, or insulation. Areas blocked at the time of inspection are noted as not inspected.

None of this is Green Door being narrow. These limits are written into the InterNACHI Standards of Practice that every certified inspector works under, and an inspector who claims otherwise is overselling.

Are detached garages, sheds and outbuildings included?

They are inspected, but they are not part of the base fee. A detached garage, shed, barn, or guest structure adds time and is priced as an additional structure. Tell us what is on the property when you schedule and the quote will reflect it, so nothing changes on inspection day.

What can you add to a home inspection?

Green Door performs all of these in house. Nothing is subcontracted, which means one company, one schedule, and one report.

  • Sewer scope — a camera run of the main sewer line from the house to the tap, which is the single most common source of a five-figure surprise in older Front Range homes.
  • Radon test — a continuous monitor placed for a minimum of 48 hours with hour-by-hour readings, not a single average.
  • Mold testing — air and surface sampling when there is visible growth or a moisture history worth investigating.
  • Wood destroying insect (termite) inspection — often required for VA loans and worth doing on older or heavily wooded lots.

Add-ons cost less bundled with the inspection than booked separately, because we are already on site. For current pricing on the base inspection and every add-on, see what a home inspection costs in Castle Rock and Douglas County.

Is a new construction inspection different?

The scope follows the same standard, but the timing matters more. On a new build you want eyes on the house before drywall goes up, because that is the only window where framing, plumbing, electrical, and HVAC are all visible at once. Once it is covered, it is covered. See why a pre-drywall inspection is the one you don’t want to skip.

Frequently asked questions

How long does a home inspection take?

Plan on three to four hours for most single-family homes: the inspection itself runs 2.5 to 3.5 hours, and add-on services running on the same visit push the average to about four. Here is the full breakdown of how long a home inspection takes. You are welcome to be there for all of it, and we would rather you were.

When do I get the report?

The same day as your inspection, emailed to you. Every finding includes photos and a location so you know exactly what you are looking at.

Does the inspector tell me whether to buy the house?

No. We tell you the condition of the house on the day we inspected it, in detail, and you and your agent decide what that is worth to you. We do not assign severity ratings or tell you what to demand, because that is your negotiation, not ours.

What if something is blocked or inaccessible on inspection day?

It gets documented as not inspected, with the reason. A locked utility room, a crawlspace packed with storage, or snow on the roof all limit what can be seen, and the report will say so rather than quietly skipping it.

Do you inspect condos and townhomes?

Yes. The scope narrows to what the unit owner is responsible for, and shared or association-maintained components are noted as outside the unit.

The bottom line

A home inspection covers every major system you can see and reach, and it stops at the walls. Knowing that boundary before you book is the difference between a report that feels thorough and a report that feels like it missed something. If you have a question about whether your specific property or concern falls inside the scope, call or text us at 720-598-0111 and ask before you schedule. We answer the phone from 8am to 8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections provides residential inspections, sewer scope inspections, radon testing, mold testing, and wood destroying insect inspections to Castle Rock, Douglas County, the Denver metro, and the Front Range.

home inspection cost -- Green Door Home Inspections

What Does a Home Inspection Cost in Castle Rock and Douglas County?

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A standard buyer’s home inspection in Castle Rock and Douglas County typically starts at $499, with most buyers landing between $700 and $900 once home size and add-ons are included. Every quote is based on the specific home, so treat these as real-world ranges, not fixed prices.

What does the base price include?

The base price covers a full home inspection with a written report built to InterNACHI standards. In plain terms, that standard means this: if we can safely get our eyes on it, we inspect it and it goes in the report. That covers the home from the roof to the basement and everything in between, including the accessible portions of the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC systems, the roof, the exterior, the structure, windows and doors, and the interior.

You get the written report the same day as the inspection. That is a standing guarantee, not a rush fee.

What is not included in a standard inspection?

Specialty items are separate services, not part of the base inspection. That includes pools and jacuzzis, irrigation systems, radon testing, sewer scopes, and mold testing. Detached structures like a shop or a detached garage are also an additional service rather than part of the base price.

How much do sewer scopes and radon tests cost?

As standalone services, a sewer scope is $299 and a radon test is $199. When you add either one to your home inspection, each drops to $175. Both are performed in-house by Green Door, not subcontracted out, which keeps scheduling on one appointment and questions with one company.

Most buyers in Colorado should at least consider both. Much of the Front Range sits in a high-radon area, and sewer lines in older neighborhoods are a common source of expensive surprises after closing.

What makes an inspection cost more?

A few things move the price up from the starting range:

Home size. Larger homes take longer to inspect, so square footage is the biggest driver of the base price.

Add-on services. Sewer scope, radon, mold, and similar services each add to the total, at the bundled pricing above. Homes on private wells should also read about our well and water inspection.

Detached structures. A detached garage, shop, or outbuilding is inspected as an additional service.

Older homes. Homes over 50 years old take more time to inspect thoroughly, and that is reflected in the price.

Distance. Properties a significant distance from our Castle Rock office may carry a travel adjustment.

If you are buying new construction, pricing works the same way, and a pre-drywall inspection during the build is worth reading about before drywall goes up.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a home inspection cost in Castle Rock?

A standard buyer’s inspection starts at $499 in Castle Rock and Douglas County. Most buyers land between $700 and $900 once home size and add-on services like radon or a sewer scope are included.

Are radon tests and sewer scopes included in a home inspection?

No. They are add-on services. A sewer scope is $299 and a radon test is $199 on their own, and each is reduced to $175 when added to a home inspection. Both are performed in-house by Green Door.

Do older homes cost more to inspect?

Homes over 50 years old generally cost more because they take longer to inspect thoroughly. Older systems and materials need more time and attention to document properly.

When do I get my inspection report?

The same day as the inspection. Green Door delivers a written report built to InterNACHI standards on the day of the inspection, every time.

How do I get an exact price for my home?

Call or text 720-598-0111 with the address and square footage and we will quote the exact price for that home, including any add-ons you want bundled. Phones are answered 8am to 8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections serves Castle Rock, Douglas County, and the greater Denver metro area. Call or text 720-598-0111, 8am to 8pm, seven days a week.

Roof flashing at chimney transition -- Green Door Home Inspections

What is Flashing on a Home?

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By Green Door Home Inspections | Castle Rock, CO

Flashing comes up in almost every inspection we do. Most buyers see it flagged in their report and have no idea what it is. That’s not surprising — it’s one of those things that blends into the roof and disappears. But it does an important job, and when it fails, the consequences show up inside the home.

What Is Flashing?

Flashing is thin metal — usually aluminum, galvanized steel, or lead-coated copper — installed at transition points on the exterior of a home to direct water away from vulnerable areas. Wherever two surfaces meet at an angle, or wherever something penetrates the roof or wall, water has a path in. Flashing closes that path.

It’s not decorative. You’re not supposed to notice it. It just sits there and keeps water moving in the right direction.

Where It’s Installed

Flashing shows up in a lot of places on a typical home. The most common locations we inspect:

  • Chimneys — step flashing up the sides, counter-flashing embedded in the mortar, and a saddle or cricket behind the chimney to shed water
  • Roof penetrations — vent pipes, exhaust flues, and other items that pass through the roof deck each need a collar or boot flashing sealed around them
  • Roof-to-wall transitions — where a roof surface meets a vertical wall, step flashing weaves between each course of shingles
  • Valleys — where two roof planes meet, valley flashing carries water down and off the roof
  • Drip edge — metal strip along the eaves and rakes that directs water off the roof edge and away from the fascia
  • Kick-out flashing — a specific piece at the bottom of a roof-to-wall transition that diverts water away from the wall instead of letting it run down behind the siding
  • Skylights — integrated flashing systems around the frame
  • Deck ledger boards — where the deck attaches to the house, flashing keeps water from getting behind the siding at that connection
  • Windows and doors — head flashing above openings directs water away from the frame

What We Look For

Missing flashing. The most serious finding. Common spots where it gets left out entirely: kick-out flashing at roof-to-wall transitions, drip edge on rakes, and step flashing on re-roofing jobs where the installer cut corners.

Improper installation. Flashing that’s installed in the wrong order, lapped the wrong direction, or nailed through the face (which creates a penetration instead of sealing one) doesn’t work as intended even if it looks present.

Sealant used as a substitute. We see this constantly — caulk or roofing cement applied where properly lapped flashing should be. Sealant cracks, shrinks, and fails. It’s a temporary patch, not a fix.

Corrosion and damage. Flashing has a long service life when installed correctly, but it does corrode — especially at dissimilar metal contacts or in areas with standing water. Significant corrosion means it’s no longer doing its job reliably.

Loose or displaced flashing. Wind, thermal movement, and settling can pull flashing out of position over time. A piece that’s lifted or separated at a seam is an open door for water.

Why It Matters

Flashing failures are one of the most common causes of water intrusion in homes. The damage doesn’t happen overnight — water works its way in slowly, often for years, before it shows up as a stain on a ceiling or rot in a wall. By the time it’s visible inside, the damage behind the wall is usually significant.

The repair cost for a flashing issue caught during inspection is a fraction of what it costs after water has been getting in for a season or two.

What Happens When We Flag It

Flashing deficiencies range from straightforward to involved depending on where they are and how the roof is constructed. A missing kick-out flashing is a relatively simple addition. Step flashing on a chimney that was done wrong on a recent re-roof is a bigger job — the shingles in that area have to come up to do it right.

In either case, the work belongs to a qualified roofing contractor. This isn’t a caulk-and-move-on situation.

For Sellers: Get Ahead of It

Flashing issues are among the most predictable findings on older roofs and on homes that have had roofing work done. If your home has been re-roofed in the last decade, it’s worth having the flashing transitions checked before listing — re-roofing jobs frequently skip or shortcut flashing details that weren’t visible from the ground.

Reach out to us directly to learn more about our pre-listing inspection service.

Bottom Line

Flashing is invisible until it fails. When it does, the evidence shows up somewhere else entirely — a water stain, soft drywall, rot in a wall cavity. We check every accessible flashing location on every inspection because catching it early is almost always cheaper than finding out after the fact.

Questions about a flashing finding in a Green Door report? Call or text us at (720) 598-0111. We’re available 8am–8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections serves the greater Denver metro and southern Colorado, including Castle Rock, Parker, Lone Tree, Highlands Ranch, Centennial, Littleton, and surrounding areas. Same-day reports, every inspection.

Guide to local Contractors

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When you need repairs on your home, it may be a little daunting trying to find a reputable contractor to call. I always recommend using a locally owned company that has the proper license to perform the work. They should be able to verify that for you at any time. Use this list as a good starting point for hiring professionals in Castle Rock, Douglas County, and the Front Range.

 

*If you don’t see a category listed here to meet your needs, contact us for current partners and recommendations. These recommendations are based on experiences personally or professionally. They are for informational purposes only. You do not need to use these specific companies in order to perform any recommended repair from an inspection report. This is simply a courtesy starting point.

Radon Testing, at a glance.

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Your Real Estate Agent or Home Inspector may be suggesting that you do a “Radon Test” before you move into your new home. What is Radon and how is it tested?

Here are some quick facts to grasp the concept and links to more information.

What is Radon

  1. Radon is a radioactive element that is toxic, colorless and odorless.
  2. Radon is in nearly all soil types and gets into a home through gaps/cracks in the home and foundations. Basements usually have the highest concentrations of Radon.
  3. Radon is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers, and second among smokers. Read more here.
  4. On average, indoor Radon levels in Douglas County (Colorado) are approximately 50% higher than the recommended “Action Level” set by the U.S. EPA.

How do we test for Radon?

During a typical home sale, we do a “short-term test” that is roughly 60 hours in total. This means that a test device is strategically placed in the home 60hr radon test begins. The 60 hour test consists of a 12 hour delay, followed by 48 hours of recorded testing. After the test is complete, a report is generated that shows the average radon levels in the home during that time.

Other notes to consider:

The test must completed in “Closed Home Conditions” (See the graphic below). This means keeping all windows and doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans or other machines (Swamp coolers, whole house fans etc.) which bring in air from the outside . Fans that are part of a radon-mitigation system or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time may run during the test. Closed Home Conditions must be maintained 12 hours prior to the test, and for the duration of the 48 hour test. Our monitors include features that detect tampering of the conditions of the home, or of the monitors themselves.

The home will need to be accessed twice for approximately 10 minutes. Once to drop the monitor, and once to pick it up at least 60 hours later. If there is a home inspection scheduled with the radon testing, the monitor may be dropped off prior to the inspection so the results can be read at the time of inspection. Another option is to drop the monitor off during the inspection, and returning at least 60 hours later to gather the monitor and receive the report.

The EPA recommends taking action to mitigate Radon if the results of the test are 4.0 pCi/L or greater. (That’s Picocuries per liter, and I’m not going to define that here! It’s the number 4.0 that is important). The average indoor Radon level in the U.S. is 1.3 pCi/L. There is no “safe level” of Radon established by the EPA. It is up to the buyer or homeowner to take action or not.

Although a 48 hour test is typical for a home sale, long-term testing is more accurate. Long term testing will take at least 90 days, and usually isn’t possible during the diligence period of a home sale. If the initial test comes back high we recommend testing again, preferably for a longer duration. If there isn’t time for that, a Radon Mitigation system can be installed and another test can be completed later to verify the system is working as intended. Radon Mitigation systems typically cost $1500 to $2500, depending on the specific home construction, location and installation techniques.

Order a Radon Test HERE.

Colorado Radon Testing Laws. HERE (Effective July 2022)

Read more about Radon HERE.

10 step guide to preparing your home for Winter.

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It’s that time of the year again! Take advantage of the Fall weather and knock out these 10 steps before the snow comes. A little maintenance goes a long way, and it isn’t very difficult.

1) Add caulking around doors and windows: Caulking is inexpensive, easy to install and very important for weatherproofing your home. Find the gaps and cracks on the interior and exterior and seal them up.

2) Replace worn weatherstripping around door jams: Weatherstripping is the rubber or foam strip that helps seal your doors. Over time, they wear out and let the conditioned air escape to the outdoors. Check the entire area around the door. If you can see daylight around the perimeter of a door when it is shut, you’re losing energy.

3) Drain irrigation systems: Water left sitting in the irrigation system can freeze and cause major damage. Hire a pro to blow out the system with compressed air and turn off the entire system until spring.

4) Disconnect hoses: Turn off your exterior water taps, drain the hoses and store them inside or in a garden box.

5) Check your downspouts: Accumulated snow on your roof will eventually melt, sending hundreds of gallons of water down the gutter system. Make sure it gets diverted away from your house with downspouts and extensions. Check the regularly for ice build-up and other clogs.

6) Have the chimney inspected: Even if you do not use your fireplace as a primary heating source, you should have the chimney inspected and cleaned every year. If there is a problem with your furnace, you will need heat until it is fixed.

7) Have your furnace serviced: It goes without saying, your furnace is incredibly important during the winter. An annual service by a professional will help keep it running smoothly and efficiently.

8) Store your mower: Gasoline engines need to be properly maintained and prepped for storage. Check the manufacturers recommendations regarding long term storage of the engine. You may need to drain fluids and use fuel additives. If your mower takes batteries, charge them up and store them indoors. They will last much longer.

9) Insulate water lines: If you have water lines running inside of an exterior wall, consider adding insulation to them. Check your basement, crawlspaces and garages as well. Freezing weather can wreck havoc on the water inside these lines. If you find a frozen pipe during the winter, call a professional plumber immediately. Attempting to thaw out a plumbing pipe can cause it to burst. Call a pro!

10) Service the water heater: Water heaters need maintenance as well, and they will inevitably be working harder in colder temperatures. Now is a great time to have a professional drain the tank and service the entire unit.

There are plenty of other steps you can take to prepare for the Winter months, but these are some of the most important ones. Most of these can be completed by yourself and a professional in just a couple days. If you want more information about your home and help deciding what needs to be done, consider an Annual Home Maintenance Inspection by a Certified Professional Inspector.

Do I really need a Home Inspection?

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This is a booming Real Estate market. Homes are being listed and sold so fast (30days) that buyers are forced to make decisions quickly and make offers on the spot. One tactic buyers use is to forgo an inspection with their offer in order to convince a seller that they are ready to move in, no matter what. But, is that safe? Do you REALLY need an inspection here in Castle Rock, or anywhere else?

The answer is YES. Even the best kept home can have material defects and hazardous issues that you may not notice by just doing a simple walk-through. Are they selling with an unknown issue? Is there a leak behind that newly painted wall? Are there signs of mold or other air quality issues? Has there been mass water intrusion into the basement or crawl-space in the past? Are there repair costs that will affect your wallet down the road? The list goes on. So what is a buyer to do?

Stick to your guns. Schedule an inspection from a Certified Professional Inspector and move quickly. If all of your other ducks are in a row……(ie, pre-approval letters, down payment plans, earnest money etc)…. then find an inspector with flexible work hours and the ability to schedule quickly online. Show the sellers that you are motivated and ready, but smart.

Even if you have to adjust your offer (Higher) to be more attractive, you can save money in the long-term with an inspection. The cost of an inspection (we start at $365 for small homes) is pennies compared to the home values in the Castle Rock area (Estimated median house or condo value in 2016: $445,400) and NOTHING compared to expenses for major repairs in your house. Armed with a strong offer and a home inspection report, you can work with your realtors to negotiate a final sale price.

It’s possible to lose the negotiation battle when you demand an inspection first (I did!), but you will be much better off knowing that a qualified professional has helped you with your due diligence and is working for YOU. These homes are expensive and can be life-long investments. Don’t get wrapped up into the hype and purchase something you will regret later.

What's Included in a Home Inspection

Infographic courtesy of Spectora

Recently move to the Front Range?

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Here are 5 tips for homeowners that are new to Colorado’s beautiful Front Range.

1) Hail is coming. Update your home and auto insurance if you need to. Park the cars in the garage. Keep the pets inside….etc. Do what you have to do, but the hail is definitely coming. Several areas along the Front Range are considered “Hail Alley”. Denver, Aurora and Colorado Springs are among the Top Ten most hail prone cities in the US. Start off with a thorough roof inspection, and have it checked out as often as needed throughout the year. A good rule of thumb is to inspect each year in the spring, and after any hail storms in your area. Most roofers do this for free or a minimal charge. When replacing existing shingles, ask your roofer about upgrading to a Class 4 shingle. The extra protection that class of shingle offers may better the best choice, and may lower your insurance.

2) It’s dry here. Contrary to popular belief the Front Range of Colorado is very dry, especially during the Winter months. Home humidity levels can easily drop to under 20% during the heating season and that can effect not only the comfort of your home, but individual health issues as well. Even wood furniture and cupboards can be negatively affected by low home humidity levels. Consider a running a humidifier near your bed when you sleep. Also, it is quite common in Colorado to install a “Whole Home” humidifier onto your forced air furnace. They usually cost a few hundred dollars, humidify the entire house and they do not require a lot a maintenance. Contact a qualified HVAC pro to look for options.

3) The sun. It matters. How would you like to never again have to shovel your driveway in the Winter? Do you like shade on the back patio or do you want to bake in the summer UV rays? The way your home is situated relative to the sun really does matter here. Year round, the sunlight is intense, much more intense than most other places in the US. Before you decide on a home, consider which direction the home faces and where the sun will be a various times of the year. You will notice North facing driveways are always full of snow and icy, while their neighbors across the street with South facing driveways are melted and clear by noon. In the summer, the back patio or deck may be too hot for activities in the afternoons, so folks will opt to hang out in the front of the house or garage where there will be more shade. Also, do not forget the building materials; Buy the UV protected paint for the house, Consider window treatments etc. You’ll even need to adjust your sprinkler heads in the lawn to account for direct sun. Trust me, the sun matters on the Front Range.

4) Expansive soil. An entire book could be written here, but I’ll give you the basics. There are certain types of soils in the ground in Colorado (actually clays, like bentonite) that can swell when they are exposed to ground water. They swell a lot actually. They swell so much that they can literally lift up the foundation of your house. So what does this mean for the typical homeowner? Keep water away from your foundation. Do yearly gutter maintenance, and check your home exterior, basement and crawl-spaces after any hard rains. This is important just about everywhere in the country, but the expansive soil here makes it even more important along the Front Range. Also, check with your local building department before your basement remodel begins. Many areas require a “Floating Wall” to be built to account for basement floor movement.

5) There is gas in your home. Radon Gas to be more specific. Radon is a colorless, odorless, naturally occurring yet highly dangerous gas that is very common in high concentrations in some soils. This gas can leak into your home through the basement or bottom floors and is actually the number 2 cause of lung cancer in the country. Sounds horrible you say? Well, it is very real and very dangerous, but it is also very easily mitigated. Most real estate transactions in Colorado will have a simple Radon test performed during escrow. Then, if necessary, a Radon Mitigation system can be installed on the home. These systems range from $500 to $2000 to install and require almost no maintenance. Your neighbor may need one, your home might not. You don’t know until you do a test. Get a test by asking your home inspector or real estate agent. Read more about Radon here.

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Green Door Home Inspections provides residential inspections, radon testing, sewer inspections, and mold testing to Castle Rock, Aurora, Denver, and the Front Range.

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