Tag Archive for: home inspection

GFCI outlet with test and reset buttons -- Green Door Home Inspections

GFCI Receptacles: What They Are, Why They Fail, and What We Look For

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By Green Door Home Inspections | Castle Rock, CO

GFCI receptacles come up in almost every inspection we do. Most buyers have seen the little outlets with the test and reset buttons — they’re in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and outside. But most people don’t know what they actually do, why they’re there, or what it means when we flag one in a report.

Here’s what you need to know.

What Is a GFCI Receptacle?

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. It’s a type of electrical outlet designed to protect people from electric shock in areas where water is present.

The way it works: the outlet constantly monitors the electrical current flowing through it. If it detects even a small imbalance — the kind that happens when electricity is finding a path to ground through a person — it shuts off power in about 1/40th of a second. That’s fast enough to prevent electrocution in most cases.

Standard outlets don’t do this. A standard outlet will keep supplying power even if you’re the one completing the circuit. That’s why GFCI protection exists, and why it’s required in specific locations throughout the home.

Where We Look for Them

GFCI protection is required in areas where water and electricity are likely to be in close proximity. When we inspect a home, we check these locations:

  • Bathrooms — all outlets, regardless of distance from the sink
  • Kitchens — outlets within 6 feet of a sink
  • Garages — all outlets, including those serving garage door openers in some jurisdictions
  • Exterior outlets — all outdoor receptacles
  • Crawlspaces and unfinished basements
  • Near pools, hot tubs, and wet bars

We test outlets in these locations using a dedicated tester. We’re checking whether GFCI protection is present and whether it’s functioning — but as with all inspection components, we test a representative number of accessible outlets, not every single one.

What We Look For

Missing GFCI protection. The most common issue, especially in older homes. A bathroom or garage outlet that was installed before GFCI requirements existed — and was never updated — has no protection at all. It looks like a normal outlet and functions like one. You’d never know the difference until something went wrong.

GFCI protection that doesn’t trip. We test GFCI outlets using a tester that simulates a ground fault. If the outlet doesn’t trip, it’s not doing its job — even if it has power and looks functional. This happens with outlets that have failed internally or were wired incorrectly.

Outlets that won’t reset. A GFCI outlet that trips and won’t reset usually means there’s an active fault on the circuit, or the device itself has failed. Either way it needs attention.

Daisy-chained protection. One GFCI outlet can protect multiple downstream outlets on the same circuit — this is normal and intentional. But when it’s done incorrectly, some outlets end up unprotected without any obvious sign that they are. Our tester catches this.

Why It Comes Up So Often

A few reasons GFCI issues are so common across the Denver metro:

Age. GFCI requirements have expanded significantly since they were first introduced in the 1970s. A home built in 1985 may have GFCI outlets in the bathrooms but not the garage, exterior, or kitchen — all of which are now standard. The older the home, the more gaps we typically find.

DIY electrical work. GFCI outlets are inexpensive and relatively easy to install, which means a lot of homeowners have added them over the years — sometimes incorrectly. Reversed line and load terminals are a common wiring error that makes the outlet appear functional but eliminates the protection entirely.

Failed devices. GFCI outlets have a finite lifespan. The internal mechanism degrades over time, especially in humid environments like bathrooms. An outlet that’s 15–20 years old may look fine but fail to trip when tested.

Finished basements and additions. When spaces are finished or added on, GFCI protection doesn’t always follow. Wet bars, utility sinks, and laundry areas added during a remodel are common spots where protection gets missed.

What Happens When We Flag It

GFCI issues are straightforward to fix. A licensed electrician can replace a standard outlet with a GFCI outlet in under 30 minutes. The outlet itself costs $15 to $25. For a whole house with multiple missing locations, the repair is still typically a single service call.

If the issue is a failed device, same fix — replace the outlet. If it’s a wiring error, the electrician will need to correct the line and load connections before the protection works properly.

None of these are complicated or expensive repairs. They just need to get done.

For Sellers: Get Ahead of It

If your home was built before 1990, it almost certainly has at least a few locations where GFCI protection is missing or outdated. This is one of the most predictable things a buyer’s inspector will flag — and one of the easiest to address before you list.

An electrician can walk the house, identify every location that needs attention, and handle it all in one visit. Having that done before listing removes a line item from the buyer’s inspection report and demonstrates that the home has been well maintained.

Reach out to us directly to learn more about our pre-listing inspection service.

Bottom Line

GFCI receptacles are a small, inexpensive component with an important job. When they’re missing or not functioning, there’s no visible sign — the outlet looks and works like any other. That’s exactly why we check for them in every applicable location on every inspection.

If you have questions about a GFCI finding in a Green Door report, call or text us directly at (720) 598-0111. We’re available 8am–8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections serves the greater Denver metro and southern Colorado, including Castle Rock, Parker, Lone Tree, Highlands Ranch, Centennial, Littleton, and surrounding areas. Same-day reports, every inspection.

Water heater with TPR valve and discharge pipe — Green Door Home Inspections

TPR Valves: The $20 Part That Can Destroy a Water Heater (or Worse)

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By Green Door Home Inspections | Castle Rock, CO

We flag TPR valve issues on a regular basis during home inspections across the Denver metro. Most buyers have never heard of the part. Most sellers don’t know it’s a problem. That’s exactly why it ends up in so many reports.

Here’s what it is, why it matters, and what to do when it comes up.

What Is a TPR Valve?

TPR stands for Temperature Pressure Relief. It’s a safety device installed on every residential water heater — required by code and by every major manufacturer.

The valve has one job: if the water inside the tank gets too hot or the pressure builds too high, the valve opens and releases water before something catastrophic happens.

Without a functioning TPR valve, a water heater can become what engineers sometimes call an “unguided missile.” The tank fails structurally, and the release of steam and pressure can be violent enough to send the tank through the roof of a house. This isn’t hypothetical — it’s documented.

The InterNACHI Standards of Practice require home inspectors to inspect the water heater and its safety components, including the TPR valve and discharge pipe.

What We Look For

When we inspect a water heater, we check several things related to the TPR valve:

The valve itself. It should be present, properly rated for the water heater (matching or exceeding the BTU rating on the unit), and not showing signs of corrosion, mineral buildup, or previous manual discharge. A valve that has been tripped repeatedly is a red flag — it either means the valve is failing or there’s an underlying pressure or temperature problem worth investigating.

The discharge pipe. This is the pipe that connects to the valve and carries hot water away if the valve opens. It should:

  • Run to within 6 inches of the floor, a drain, or an exterior location
  • Be made of appropriate material (copper, CPVC, or galvanized steel — not PEX in many jurisdictions, and never a flexible hose)
  • Run downward — never upward
  • Terminate with an air gap, not threaded to a drain (threading it closed defeats the purpose)
  • Not be capped, plugged, or reduced in diameter

Missing discharge pipe. This is the most common issue we see. The valve is present, but nothing is connected to it. If that valve opens, it discharges scalding water directly onto anyone standing nearby.

Why It Comes Up So Often

TPR valve issues are common for a few reasons:

Homeowners tamper with them. If a valve starts dripping — which can happen as they age — the instinct is to cap it or remove it rather than replace it. That turns a minor annoyance into a genuine hazard.

Plumbers don’t always install discharge pipes. On replacement water heaters especially, we see units installed without a discharge pipe at all.

Age. Valves are typically rated for 6 years of service. Many water heaters in the Denver metro are well past that, and the TPR valve has never been tested or replaced.

DIY installations. When homeowners replace their own water heater, the valve setup is often the part that gets done wrong.

What Happens When We Flag It

If we note a TPR valve issue in your inspection report, the fix is almost always straightforward.

A missing discharge pipe or a capped valve needs to be corrected — it’s a real hazard and not something to sit on. A licensed plumber can handle it in under an hour. The valve itself costs $20 to $40.

A deteriorated or corroded valve, or one showing signs of previous discharge, warrants replacement. Same process, same cost range.

A discharge pipe that terminates incorrectly — too high, into a wall, or threaded closed — needs to be rerouted so it actually does its job if the valve ever opens.

None of these are expensive repairs. They just need to get done.

For Sellers: Get Ahead of It

If you’re listing a home with a water heater that’s more than 8-10 years old, the TPR valve is worth a look before buyers do their inspection. It’s inexpensive to replace, and finding it during a pre-listing inspection means you fix it on your timeline rather than under contract pressure.

Reach out to us directly to learn more about our pre-listing inspection service.

Bottom Line

The TPR valve is a small part with a big job. It doesn’t require maintenance, doesn’t announce when it’s failing, and gets ignored for years at a time. When it comes up in an inspection report, it’s not something to negotiate away — it’s something to fix.

If you have questions about a TPR valve finding in a Green Door report, call or text us directly at (720) 598-0111. We’re available 8am-8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections serves the greater Denver metro and southern Colorado, including Castle Rock, Parker, Lone Tree, Highlands Ranch, Centennial, Littleton, and surrounding areas. Same-day reports, every inspection.

Two-story home for sale in the Denver metro with RE/MAX listing sign in the front yard

Why Listing Agents Should Stop Avoiding Pre-Listing Inspections

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Most listing agents I talk to in the Denver metro avoid recommending pre-listing inspections. The reason is almost always the same: they don’t want their seller to have to disclose more stuff. I get it. On the surface, less disclosure feels safer. But after nine years inspecting homes across Castle Rock, Douglas County, and the south metro, I’m convinced that thinking is backwards — and it’s quietly costing your sellers money and increasing your own liability.

Here’s the honest case for pre-listing inspections, and why the listing agents who recommend them are positioning their sellers better than the ones who don’t.

The disclosure fear, and why it’s backwards

The logic goes like this: if my seller doesn’t know about a problem, they can’t be required to disclose it. Stay ignorant, list the house, hope the buyer’s inspector misses it or that the issue isn’t a dealbreaker.

The problem with that logic is the buyer is going to bring in an inspector anyway. According to a Porch study of nearly 1,000 homebuyers, 86% of home inspections find something that needs to be fixed. In my experience inspecting homes across the Denver metro, that number holds. Pretty much every inspection turns something up — sometimes minor, sometimes significant. So the question isn’t whether the problem gets discovered. It’s when, and on whose timeline.

You can either find out at listing time, when you have leverage and options, or at the 11th hour with showings done, an accepted offer on the table, and a buyer with a clear path to walk away. That’s not a hypothetical — NAR’s Realtors Confidence Index data consistently shows that roughly 5-7% of all contracts terminate in any given three-month window, and inspection issues are routinely cited as a leading cause, accounting for 25-29% of those terminations. Of the deals that survive, Porch data shows buyers negotiate an average of $14,000 off the original asking price when they have leverage from inspection findings.

A $14,000 price reduction — or a dead deal two months into the listing — both cost way more than a pre-listing inspection.

What it actually does for the seller

When a seller does a pre-listing inspection, they get a third-party report on the condition of their home before a buyer is involved. That changes the entire dynamic of the sale.

Say the inspection turns up 25 items. Some are routine maintenance — clean the gutters, touch up some paint, replace worn weatherstripping, recaulk the tub, swap out a burned-out bulb in the basement. Twenty-minute jobs. Some are real. The seller can:

  • Fix the major items on their own timeline, with contractors they choose, at prices they negotiate (not at the panicked pace of an inspection objection period)
  • Knock out the small stuff in an afternoon
  • Price the home accounting for anything they’re not fixing
  • Hand the report and the receipts to the next buyer

Now imagine the listing. The report sits on the kitchen counter at every showing. Ten items on it are already marked fixed with proof. The seller looks serious, transparent, and like a careful owner. The buyer’s agent walks out and tells their client this seller is squared away.

I’ve seen buyers occasionally waive their own inspection when a recent third-party report is sitting right there. It’s not required, and it’s not common, but it happens. And even when the buyer does their own inspection, they walk in knowing what to expect. The surprises that kill deals aren’t there anymore.

Radon is a special case worth flagging

Radon testing deserves its own mention here because it gets messy in real time. The test requires 48 hours of closed-house conditions to be valid — windows shut, doors only used for normal entry/exit. When buyers do the test during a tight inspection period, those conditions get violated all the time. A neighbor leaves a door open. The HVAC isn’t set right. Family members ignore the closed-house protocol. Then the result is suspect, the buyer panics, and it becomes a renegotiation point.

When the seller does the test pre-listing, none of that happens. The test is run under controlled conditions, the result is documented, and — this part matters in Colorado — the seller is required to disclose the result anyway under SB 23-206, which took effect in August 2023. The law requires sellers to provide buyers with any known radon test results, mitigation history, and information about any installed radon mitigation system.

So the question isn’t whether the radon result gets disclosed. It’s whether it gets disclosed cleanly upfront or chaotically during the inspection objection period. If a pre-listing test comes back high, the seller can mitigate before the home is even listed — and a documented mitigation system is often a positive selling point, not a negative.

What it does for you as the listing agent

Listing agents who recommend pre-listing inspections are reducing their own liability, not increasing it.

When a buyer falls out of contract two months in because the inspector found a $25,000 issue, your seller wasn’t the only one who didn’t know. You didn’t know either. The seller can — and sometimes does — come back at you and ask why you didn’t recommend they get ahead of it. Especially in a high-income market like Castle Rock, Highlands Ranch, or Lone Tree, where spending $650 to $1,200 on a pre-listing inspection is a non-issue for most sellers, the absence of that recommendation looks worse in hindsight than the presence of disclosed issues looks at listing time.

Agents who actively recommend pre-listing inspections also get a cleaner pipeline. Fewer renegotiations. Fewer extension requests. Fewer dead deals that have to go back on the market with the stink of a failed inspection attached.

Nobody truly trusts the seller’s property disclosure document. Buyers and their agents assume sellers either don’t know what’s wrong with their house or aren’t being fully forthcoming. A third-party inspection report cuts through that completely. It’s the difference between “the seller says the roof is fine” and “here’s the report from the certified inspector who looked at it last month.”

Use the inspection as a marketing tool

The pre-listing report doesn’t have to sit quietly in a file. Sellers can put a “Pre-Inspected” sign in the front yard, mention it in the listing description, hand the report out at open houses, or include a link to it in the listing packet. Most buyers in this market have done at least one inspection and know what the process feels like. Seeing that a seller has been through it already and is showing the results signals a level of preparation that almost no other listing offers.

That’s the strategic value. The inspection isn’t a defensive move — it’s an offensive one. The seller goes to market with information, documentation, and a story. Other listings go to market hoping.

When pre-listing makes sense, and when it doesn’t

Most resale homes in the Denver metro benefit from a pre-listing inspection. Situations where it’s an especially clear fit:

  • Older homes — anything pre-1990, especially if the seller’s been there a long time
  • Homes with deferred maintenance the seller knows about but hasn’t addressed
  • Unique properties where comparable sales don’t tell the full story
  • Sellers planning a quick close who can’t afford a deal blowup
  • FSBO-curious sellers who want to control the narrative

The main situation where it probably isn’t worth the cost is when the property is being sold for lot value or redevelopment — the buyer is going to tear it down anyway, so condition doesn’t drive the deal.

Sellers usually have no real idea what’s going on with their house — not because they’re hiding anything, but because nobody walks the roof, opens the panel, or scopes the sewer line on a routine Saturday.

The competitive advantage nobody’s using

Here’s the part most listing agents miss. Pre-listing inspections are still rare in this market. In my experience working across the Denver metro, the vast majority of listings don’t come with one — and most sellers have never even heard the term. That means the agents who recommend them are doing something almost nobody else is doing.

Think about what that means for your seller. Every other listing in their price range is going to market the same way: standard photos, standard description, standard disclosure form that nobody trusts. Your listing shows up with a third-party inspection report on the counter, a list of repairs already completed with receipts, and a seller who can credibly say “we have nothing to hide.”

That’s a real differentiator in a market where buyers have options. It’s not a marketing gimmick — it’s a substantive signal that says this seller takes the transaction seriously. Agents who build a reputation for recommending pre-listing inspections become known for cleaner, faster, more reliable closes. Sellers refer them to other sellers. Buyer’s agents respect them more.

The strategy has been sitting in plain sight for years. It just hasn’t been adopted because of the disclosure fear I addressed earlier in this post — and that fear is largely misplaced.

How to position it to your seller

The conversation isn’t “you should pay to find more problems with your house.” It’s “you should pay to control the timeline and the narrative on what the buyer’s inspector is going to find anyway.”

Lines that work:

  • “The buyer is going to inspect this house no matter what. The question is whether we see it first or get blindsided by it.”
  • “If we find something, you have months to handle it your way. If they find it, you have 10 days to react under pressure.”
  • “A clean report — or a report with proof of repairs — is the strongest marketing piece you can put in front of a buyer.”

Sellers in this market can afford it. A standard pre-listing inspection runs around $650 to $750 for a typical single-family home, closer to $1,050-$1,200 with sewer and radon added. On a Douglas County sale that’s typically $700,000 or more, that’s a small cost relative to what’s at stake — and trivial compared to a $14,000 inspection-driven price reduction or a deal that falls through entirely.

FAQ

How much does a pre-listing inspection cost in the Denver metro?

Same as a buyer’s inspection. Around $650 to $750 for a standard single-family home, more with add-ons like sewer scopes or radon testing. Pricing scales with square footage and age — the exact quote depends on the home.

Does the seller have to disclose what the inspection finds?

Yes. In Colorado, sellers must disclose known material defects on the Seller’s Property Disclosure form. A pre-listing inspection creates that knowledge. The trade-off is real — and it’s the right one, because the alternative is the buyer’s inspector finding the same issue under far worse conditions for the seller.

What if the buyer’s inspector finds different stuff anyway?

Sometimes happens. Different inspectors emphasize different things. But the major items — the deal-killers — are usually consistent. A pre-listing inspection catches the vast majority of what a buyer’s inspector will flag, which means the surprises shrink dramatically.

Will it actually save money on the deal?

In most cases, yes. Buyers who negotiate off inspection findings save an average of $14,000 nationally, per Porch data. Pre-listing removes that leverage and gives it back to the seller, who can price the issues in upfront or fix them at their own cost.

How long is a pre-listing inspection valid?

Not very long, honestly. A pre-listing report represents the condition of the home on the day of the inspection. The closer the listing date is to the inspection, the more credible the report. A 30 to 60 day window is realistic. After that, weather events, system failures, or other changes can make findings out of date, and any buyer worth their salt is going to want a fresh look. No buyer should assume an older report still reflects current conditions — and most will order their own inspection regardless of how recent the pre-listing one is.

Talk it through before your next listing

If you’ve got a listing coming up where a pre-listing inspection might make sense, call or text me directly at (720) 598-0111. I’ll walk through the specific situation — no pressure, no quote until you want one. Same-day reports, in-house services, and I work with listing agents across the Denver metro, Castle Rock, and southern Colorado.

Solar panel array on residential roof -- Green Door Home Inspections

What Is a Solar Panel Inspection?

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A closer look at your Solar System

If a home has a solar electric system, many buyers and homeowners want to know one basic thing: does it appear to be in good condition?

A solar panel inspection is a visual, non-invasive inspection of the visible and accessible parts of the solar system. We provide you with a dedicated report showing issues found, and information about your specific system. It is designed to look at the overall condition of the system, note visible installation concerns, review major components like the panels and inverter(s), look at energy storage if the home has batteries, and help document the system with photos and basic system information.

What does a solar panel inspection look at?

 

A typical solar inspection may include items such as:

  • the solar panels themselves

  • visible damage or broken panels

  • loose or missing clamps

  • wires touching the roof

  • pest proofing around the array

  • the inverter(s)

  • battery storage, if present

  • the utility meter and solar breaker

  • system labels and conduit labeling

  • basic observations about panel layout, shading, and roof placement

 

In simple terms, the inspection is meant to help identify visible concerns and give a clearer picture of what is installed at the home.

Why does this matter?

Solar systems can be a valuable feature, but they are also a major component of the property. Buyers may want more confidence about the visible condition of the system. Sellers may want documentation before listing. Homeowners may simply want a better understanding of what they have.

A solar inspection can help answer questions like:

  • Are there visible signs of damage?

  • Are the main components present and labeled?

  • Does the installation appear to have any visible concerns?

  • Is there battery storage?

  • What type of inverter system is installed?

  • Are there signs that more evaluation may be needed?

 

What a solar inspection does not do

It is important to understand that this is generally a limited inspection. It is based on visible and accessible components only. If parts of the system cannot be accessed due to safety concerns, weather, locked panels, or other limitations, those areas may not be inspected. The inspector also does not turn on systems that are already powered off at the time of the inspection.

This type of inspection is not the same as a full diagnostic evaluation, engineering review, or guarantee of future performance.

Common things that may be noted

During a solar inspection, some common visible concerns may include damaged panels, loose components, missing labels, exposed or poorly supported wiring, shading, or other visible installation issues. The inspection may also document information such as panel manufacturer, inverter type, approximate system size, battery presence, and other visible system details.

Final thoughts

Solar electric systems are becoming more common on homes, and they can add another layer to the inspection process. A solar panel inspection helps document the visible condition of the system and identify obvious concerns in a way that is easier for a buyer or homeowner to understand. A separate and dedicated report will be delivered to you as well.

If you are buying a home with solar, selling one, or just want a better understanding of the system on your property, a solar inspection can be a helpful next step.

Roof flashing at chimney transition -- Green Door Home Inspections

What is Flashing on a Home?

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By Green Door Home Inspections | Castle Rock, CO

Flashing comes up in almost every inspection we do. Most buyers see it flagged in their report and have no idea what it is. That’s not surprising — it’s one of those things that blends into the roof and disappears. But it does an important job, and when it fails, the consequences show up inside the home.

What Is Flashing?

Flashing is thin metal — usually aluminum, galvanized steel, or lead-coated copper — installed at transition points on the exterior of a home to direct water away from vulnerable areas. Wherever two surfaces meet at an angle, or wherever something penetrates the roof or wall, water has a path in. Flashing closes that path.

It’s not decorative. You’re not supposed to notice it. It just sits there and keeps water moving in the right direction.

Where It’s Installed

Flashing shows up in a lot of places on a typical home. The most common locations we inspect:

  • Chimneys — step flashing up the sides, counter-flashing embedded in the mortar, and a saddle or cricket behind the chimney to shed water
  • Roof penetrations — vent pipes, exhaust flues, and other items that pass through the roof deck each need a collar or boot flashing sealed around them
  • Roof-to-wall transitions — where a roof surface meets a vertical wall, step flashing weaves between each course of shingles
  • Valleys — where two roof planes meet, valley flashing carries water down and off the roof
  • Drip edge — metal strip along the eaves and rakes that directs water off the roof edge and away from the fascia
  • Kick-out flashing — a specific piece at the bottom of a roof-to-wall transition that diverts water away from the wall instead of letting it run down behind the siding
  • Skylights — integrated flashing systems around the frame
  • Deck ledger boards — where the deck attaches to the house, flashing keeps water from getting behind the siding at that connection
  • Windows and doors — head flashing above openings directs water away from the frame

What We Look For

Missing flashing. The most serious finding. Common spots where it gets left out entirely: kick-out flashing at roof-to-wall transitions, drip edge on rakes, and step flashing on re-roofing jobs where the installer cut corners.

Improper installation. Flashing that’s installed in the wrong order, lapped the wrong direction, or nailed through the face (which creates a penetration instead of sealing one) doesn’t work as intended even if it looks present.

Sealant used as a substitute. We see this constantly — caulk or roofing cement applied where properly lapped flashing should be. Sealant cracks, shrinks, and fails. It’s a temporary patch, not a fix.

Corrosion and damage. Flashing has a long service life when installed correctly, but it does corrode — especially at dissimilar metal contacts or in areas with standing water. Significant corrosion means it’s no longer doing its job reliably.

Loose or displaced flashing. Wind, thermal movement, and settling can pull flashing out of position over time. A piece that’s lifted or separated at a seam is an open door for water.

Why It Matters

Flashing failures are one of the most common causes of water intrusion in homes. The damage doesn’t happen overnight — water works its way in slowly, often for years, before it shows up as a stain on a ceiling or rot in a wall. By the time it’s visible inside, the damage behind the wall is usually significant.

The repair cost for a flashing issue caught during inspection is a fraction of what it costs after water has been getting in for a season or two.

What Happens When We Flag It

Flashing deficiencies range from straightforward to involved depending on where they are and how the roof is constructed. A missing kick-out flashing is a relatively simple addition. Step flashing on a chimney that was done wrong on a recent re-roof is a bigger job — the shingles in that area have to come up to do it right.

In either case, the work belongs to a qualified roofing contractor. This isn’t a caulk-and-move-on situation.

For Sellers: Get Ahead of It

Flashing issues are among the most predictable findings on older roofs and on homes that have had roofing work done. If your home has been re-roofed in the last decade, it’s worth having the flashing transitions checked before listing — re-roofing jobs frequently skip or shortcut flashing details that weren’t visible from the ground.

Reach out to us directly to learn more about our pre-listing inspection service.

Bottom Line

Flashing is invisible until it fails. When it does, the evidence shows up somewhere else entirely — a water stain, soft drywall, rot in a wall cavity. We check every accessible flashing location on every inspection because catching it early is almost always cheaper than finding out after the fact.

Questions about a flashing finding in a Green Door report? Call or text us at (720) 598-0111. We’re available 8am–8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections serves the greater Denver metro and southern Colorado, including Castle Rock, Parker, Lone Tree, Highlands Ranch, Centennial, Littleton, and surrounding areas. Same-day reports, every inspection.

Air conditioner condenser unit -- Green Door Home Inspections

R22 and older Air Conditioners

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By Green Door Home Inspections | Castle Rock, CO

When we flag an older air conditioner in a report, buyers often want to know the same thing: does this need to be replaced right now? The honest answer is usually no — but there are things worth understanding before you close.

What We Look For

During a home inspection, we operate the AC system and document what we observe — whether it’s cooling, the age of the unit, visible condition of the condenser and refrigerant lines, and any obvious deficiencies. We note the age from the data plate on the unit. We don’t perform HVAC diagnostics, but a system that’s old, showing visible wear, or producing unusual behavior gets flagged for further evaluation by an HVAC professional.

Age Matters — Here’s Why

A typical residential air conditioner has a lifespan of 15–20 years. After that, you’re not necessarily looking at immediate failure, but you are looking at higher repair costs, reduced efficiency, and parts availability starting to shrink.

When we note a unit as significantly aged, we’re not saying it’s broken. We’re saying the buyer should understand the replacement timeline they’re inheriting and factor that into their planning.

R22 Refrigerant — What It Means in 2026

If the unit was manufactured before roughly 2010, it almost certainly uses R22 refrigerant (also called Freon or HCFC-22). R22 was phased out of production by the EPA due to its environmental impact. It’s no longer manufactured in the US.

What that means practically: if an R22 system develops a refrigerant leak, recharging it requires reclaimed R22 — which still exists in limited supply but is expensive and getting harder to source. A repair that would cost a few hundred dollars on a modern system can cost significantly more on an R22 unit, if it’s even practical.

Most R22 systems that are still running in 2026 are on borrowed time. Not because they’re broken, but because the economics of repairing them no longer make sense once something goes wrong. Replacement with a modern R-410A or R-32 system is almost always the right move at that point.

You can look up the age of any unit using the serial number at building-center.org.

What Happens When We Flag It

If we note the AC as significantly aged or as an R22 system, the follow-up step is an evaluation by a licensed HVAC contractor — not because something is necessarily wrong, but because you want a professional opinion on current condition and remaining useful life before you close.

An HVAC tech can check refrigerant levels, inspect the coils, test electrical components, and give you a realistic picture of what you’re working with. That information is worth having before you’re the owner.

For Sellers: Get Ahead of It

An older AC unit is one of the first things a buyer’s inspector will flag and one of the first things buyers ask about. If your system is over 15 years old, having it serviced and documented before listing — or being prepared to discuss its condition — removes a common source of negotiation friction.

Reach out to us directly to learn more about our pre-listing inspection service.

Bottom Line

An older AC system in a report isn’t a crisis. It’s information. Knowing the age, the refrigerant type, and the current condition lets you make a clear-eyed decision about what you’re buying — and what you might be budgeting for down the road.

Questions about an AC finding in a Green Door report? Call or text us at (720) 598-0111. We’re available 8am–8pm, seven days a week.

Green Door Home Inspections serves the greater Denver metro and southern Colorado, including Castle Rock, Parker, Lone Tree, Highlands Ranch, Centennial, Littleton, and surrounding areas. Same-day reports, every inspection.

Don’t Be Roped In by Amateurs

Hire an inspector that is certified, thorough, and knows what he’s doing.

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Proudly Providing Home Inspection Services

Green Door Home Inspections provides residential inspections, radon testing, sewer inspections, and mold testing to Castle Rock, Aurora, Denver, and the Front Range.

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Contact Us

We love hearing from you anytime!
Call, text or email us if you have any questions or use the online scheduler to set up a home inspection.

info@greendoorhi.com

720-598-0111